Building an electric brewhouse (moving indoors)

[nagirroc]

Have brewed twice with the new system with some success and some issues.

First I spoke with auberins tech support, very pleased with the support, they gave me some setting changes for the PID which have rectified my issue with the PID keeping my HLT 3F high.

However I have seen a drop in efficiency from ~80% to 65% (I was using a 10 gal round cooler/domed false bottom and now using a 15 gal pot with false bottom and HERMS).

One issue I encountered was heat loss during the strike which resulted in my initial temp being 10F low. I am not sure this affected the efficiency as I then heated the mash to 150F with the HERMS and did not start my 60 min until I hit 150F.

Another issue was my mash was very thick because my new false bottom holds 2 gal of liquid below the grain vs my previous domed false bottom held maybe 1 quart. Do brewers with these false bottoms (with legs) add that volume of liquid to the initial strike quantity?

Any other ideas?

[Roger]

I also have an electric brewery and I've noticed some of the same issues you've mentioned. There are a few differences between our systems though. I use converted kegs as my pots and drain from the bottom and I don't use a HERMS even though I planed to in the first place I just batch sparge and recirculate for 15 min at the end of my mash. I consistently get 85% efficiently with a couple of batches hitting 90% so I've never seen the need for a HERMS.
So the space under your false I believe is referred to as the dead space. Alot of the software for strike water calculations ask for dead space volume. So I would assume adding more strike water will fix the mash thickness. My false bottom has less than a quart of dead space. So it doesn't really affect my calculations that much.
As far the temperature issues I had some growing pains also. I started having to heat my strike water a good 10-15° higher. So lets say I'm aiming for a strike water temp of 168 I'll heat my water to about 180° pump it into my mash tun and stir it around and wait for it to reach the right temp then add my grain. The stainless steel is like a big heat sink. But once it's hot it stays that way. I built a sort of big can koosie to help it but it probably doesn't need it. I never loose a degree sometimes I even gain a degree.
I believe most of the conversion happens in the first 15 min or so. So it's probably best to get your strike water to the desired temperature ASAP.

[nagirroc]

My efficiency is still low but not from lack of trying.

[pliny]

Looks good man.
No offence but who cares about efficiency once is above 65%. Add another pound of 2 row for 72cents.

[nagirroc]

I can understand the point of view but the biggest issue is my personality. I love systems and numbers and making improvements. The second issue is that my previous system (10 gallon cooler and propane burner) was achieving 80%.

[robcoombs]

I can understand the point of view but the biggest issue is my personality. I love systems and numbers and making improvements. The second issue is that my previous system (10 gallon cooler and propane burner) was achieving 80%.

I completely understand your frustation. For a long time I was getting ~65% brewing the exact same recipes as other guys getting 75-80%. It drove me crazy, I eventually found a change to my mash that raised my effeciency to ~75%. I'd still like to do a little better.

[Two Wheeler]

My efficiency is still low but not from lack of trying.

Have you corrected the strike temp problem and mash deadspace problem yet?

[nagirroc]

Yes, I have corrected my temp and water volume issues that I encountered in my first couple of runs.

I also started crushing my own grains at the same time I started the new system so the crush is the next variable that I will be playing with.

Something else I thought of, not sure it will affect efficiency, I will slow my pump on the HERMS for my next batch.

[Roger]

I found a slower lautering did help my efficiency. I'm not using a HERMS but I did plan to in the first place. However without it my efficiency averages 85 so I'm not sure if a HERMS would improve efficiency enough to justify the cost and time to build one. Ah who am I kidding! I'll probably build one eventually just for shits and giggles...

[HopHead]

Hey guys,  looking for any and all advice/opinions on how to proceed. Been brewing for just about two years doing all grain with a cooler mash tun. Going to revamp a room in my basement and move to an electric system. Thinking of 20-30 gallon pots as a couple neighbors are interested in the end product.  Lol.  Been researching like crazy and can't seem to be able to make up my mind. I've looked at everything from the Kal's Electric Brewery to Brewha BIAC.  Any thoughts?
Thanks. In Advance
Richard
P.S would love to come to a meeting and talk to you knowledgeable folks. Cheers !!!!

[HopHead]

i guess i should've also put that i was considering Blichmann pots and Highgravity contriol panel.

Richard

[Roger]

Hey guys,  looking for any and all advice/opinions on how to proceed. Been brewing for just about two years doing all grain with a cooler mash tun. Going to revamp a room in my basement and move to an electric system. Thinking of 20-30 gallon pots as a couple neighbors are interested in the end product.  Lol.  Been researching like crazy and can't seem to be able to make up my mind. I've looked at everything from the Kal's Electric Brewery to Brewha BIAC.  Any thoughts?
Thanks. In Advance
Richard
P.S would love to come to a meeting and talk to you knowledgeable folks. Cheers !!!!

I have no first hand experience with any of the systems you mentioned. Mine is all home made with features from several types of systems in one. Kind of a Frankenstein I guess you could say but it works great for me. I didn't have a large budget but I knew I could build something I'd be happy with.
That being said though if I had the money I'd probably go with the Brewha BIAC. I like the idea of not transferring until kegging and the small footprint. But a couple of the obvious downsides are you can only brew when its empty unless you transfer into carboys and second is dealing with the grain. With 20-30 gallon batches your gonna need a hoist of some kind to pull it out.
I don't think there's a "best system" they all have their own strengths and weaknesses. It all boils down to personal preference.

[HopHead]

Thank you for the comment. The main reason i was leaning harder towards the three vessel system was due to batch size. Figured that there would be limitations with the BIAC. Also looked at the Brua system. But there are no reviews out there for me to read. I was contacted by the owner from Brua, and he informed me that there is a 45 L and 95 Liter system coming soon though.

[HopHead]

Keep posting Nagirroc, this is nice to see.

Al - what did you put together for a RIMS system?

I just did a 30 gallon ssbrewtech system with a panel from high gravity, and blichmann sparge arm. Works excellent, efficiency is as high as 90% with the lighter beers, and always 80+ with the bigger beers. When I first started using it I was milling grain like I was still cooler mashing expecting around 75 +/-% and beer were way higher ABV than intended.

Can you tell me where you picked up your ssbrewtech kettles?? Been eyeing these as well.
thanks

[HopHead]

What are the 25 gallon kettles Everwood sells like for electric brewing. Not sure i like the sight glass on all my kettles and thats what i would have if i choose Blichmann. Only thing is i do get 30% off at Noble Grape. hmmmmmm..........