kegging

[Roger]

So I want to have my beer on tap by Christmas but I don't quite now where to start. I'm planning on using sanke so the only real difference is the connection point at the keg. That being said I know I need a bunch of stuff so I'll start with a list of what I have and maybe you guys can give me some pointers of what I need. I've got 4, 20L kegs, 2 sanke couplers, a full size fridge, a couple regulators without gauges but I think I might use them later for different style beer carbonation levels or a stout tap down the road. I'm not looking to go cheep I want good quality stuff but I also don't want to spend a fortune where I don't need to. I'm planning to get 4 SS perlicks with shanks (length ?), a double regulator, a 4 way manifold with shut off valves, a 5 lbs CO2 tank, and some tubing for gas and beer lines. Not sure what to get for tubing length and sizes. Any suggestions and pointers would be much appreciated. 

[Chris Craig]

I use 7' lines for my setup.  The think-walled stuff that OBK sells.  That works perfect for me. 

I'd go with a 20lb tank if you can.  It'll pay for itself over time.

The shanks need to be long enough to fit through the wall of the fridge + a wooden board.

[Roger]

Is the tubing the same size for gas and beer? Is the board just for pressure displacement against the front of the door or does it go inside?

[Jake]

beer is ususally 3/16th and gas 5/16th I do believe. I use 1/4 for my gas line and works great

[Chris Craig]

The gas line is quite a bit more flexible too.  Makes it easy to clamp down well enough to prevent leaks.  And yes, the board is to spread out the pressure of the nut holding the shank tight. 4.5 should be fine. 

[Roger]

I use 7' lines for my setup.  The think-walled stuff that OBK sells.  That works perfect for me. 

I'd go with a 20lb tank if you can.  It'll pay for itself over time.

The shanks need to be long enough to fit through the wall of the fridge + a wooden board.

I'm a little nervous about drilling a hole through the side of the fridge for a 20lb tank I think I'll go with a 5lb tank but I can change my mind at a later date.

[Roger]

Looks like I'm gona place an OBK order here soon anyone need anything? do we still get any deals there? I might order some stuff through Everwood as well.

[Chris Craig]

They do a points reward program now. The 5% discount code no longer works.

[Roger]

They do a points reward program now. The 5% discount code no longer works.

How does that work? Amount spent or how often I place orders?

[Al-Loves-Wine]

Yeah, you get 10 bucks off for every 200 points you accumulate, and they do seem to add up fairly quick. I spent probably a bit over 400 last month, and ended up with around 500 points. So was able to get a ball valve and bazooka screen for 30 bucks shipped after using my points.

[fakr]

Hey  Roger,

I'll speak for the sankey keg cleaning and filling:

You'll pretty much need a dedicated sankey coupler depending on the coupler.  This is because you'll need to remove the check ball and ball guard from the top (liquid out) of the coupler.  You also need to remove the rubber check valve from the side (gas in) of the coupler.

So with both removed, you can fill a sankey keg, allowing the excess pressure to release out the gas port of the coupler.

To clean a sankey keg, hook your recirculation pump up to the top (liquid) of the coupler and turn the keg upside down.  Cleanser will go up the dip tube, hit the center of the keg, and flow down the sides and out the side (gas) port of the coupler....let it run 10-15 minutes and you should be good....repeat with fresh water.  Use real hot water for your cleaning and rinsing, then cold star san for the last rinse.

Hope that helps.

P.S.  try to stay away from chlorine based cleansers for stainless if you didn't already know.  use powdered brewers wash or a cleanser with a high alkalinity. 

[Roger]

Hey  Roger,

I'll speak for the sankey keg cleaning and filling:

You'll pretty much need a dedicated sankey coupler depending on the coupler.  This is because you'll need to remove the check ball and ball guard from the top (liquid out) of the coupler.  You also need to remove the rubber check valve from the side (gas in) of the coupler.

So with both removed, you can fill a sankey keg, allowing the excess pressure to release out the gas port of the coupler.

To clean a sankey keg, hook your recirculation pump up to the top (liquid) of the coupler and turn the keg upside down.  Cleanser will go up the dip tube, hit the center of the keg, and flow down the sides and out the side (gas) port of the coupler....let it run 10-15 minutes and you should be good....repeat with fresh water.  Use real hot water for your cleaning and rinsing, then cold star san for the last rinse.

Hope that helps.

P.S.  try to stay away from chlorine based cleansers for stainless if you didn't already know.  use powdered brewers wash or a cleanser with a high alkalinity.

I should have 2 spare sanke couplers I intend to use them for pressure fermenting and cleaning.
Thanks

[Roger]

How does everyone feel about using beer line for gas? The OBK stuff •May also be used for gas line. Might be nice to see if any beer is going up it.

[Roger]

The place I ordered my taps are all out. They have offered to substitute the Perlick 525ss with the 575ss creamer faucets should I go for it or wait?

[Jake]

Yea I prefer clear gas line myself too for that exact reason. The red stuff you can't see when you have backflow ... which has probably happened to everyone at some point.

Princess Auto in Moncton sells the clear braided 1/4 inch stuff that I use. I think Joe may have picked me some up a while back. At like 30 cents a foot you can't go wrong, and it's rated for very high pressure. Good quality stuff.